Day 23: Chukhung - Deboche (or Tengboche)
This day consists of a long but gradual descent from Chukhung (4750 meters) to Deboche (3770 meters) or 20 minutes further down the trail, Tengboche (3860 meters). We began our trek at 8:30am and ended our day at the most southern part of Deboche at large the Rivendell Lodge around 13:30. Chukhung has cold mornings and you want a hot breakfast before starting your trek. Basically backtrack the same trail you took from upper Pangboche - Chukhung described in Day 19 section. We stopped in Deboche at the bakery next to Green Tara lodge for a croissant and coffee before resuming our walk. It's remarkable how the high altitude terrain changes in a few hours, beginning your morning around rock, snow, & glaciers and by lunch time walking through Rhododendron forests & turquoise rivers. Prior to entering Pangboche you can choose to enter the lower part of town (Wa Lim) or upper Pangboche (Te Lim). We chose lower Pangboche (Wa Lim) eventually taking a left in the fork in the road next to Himalayan Lodge, following the trail to Deboche. If you find yourself in upper Pangboche, don't worry, you can find signposts pointing you to the trail to lower Pangboche (Te Lim), ask locals & other trekkers, or follow signposts to the Deboche trail. Past Pangboche you pass faded Mani walls and old stupas on an undulating trail before crossing prayer wheels covered by a red roof (seen in the above slideshow). The trail immediately drops and you make your way, crossing a bridge over a beautiful glacial turquoise river. You briefly climb passing a downed bridge on your right entering a valley of enchanting forests and tiny Himalayan hamlets that make you feel like you are a traveler in a Tolkien novel. Walk past a long Mani wall before you come to Deboche Gompa where several nuns live. You are welcome to visit the small & austere Gompa & leave a donation. After 5 minutes you enter Deboche and have your choice of lodges. We chose to stay at the large Rivendell Lodge at the far southern edge of town. They have rooms with private bath and hot showers. The large kitchen serves really good food and a specialty is Chili Chicken. Keep walking 20 minutes up a forested slope if you want to stay in Tengboche with several lodges and the famous monastery.